The first question is whether replacement is needed at all. A draught caused by a worn seal or a misaligned hinge can sometimes be fixed without removing the frame. Where the frame itself is warped, rotten, or the sealed glazing unit has failed, repair tends to cost more than it saves. The on-site survey records frame condition, glazing integrity, and hardware before any decision is made, so the written quote can set out both options with separate costs.
Once replacement is agreed, the method depends on the outer frame. If it is still level, plumb, and structurally sound, a pocket insert fits the new double-glazed unit into the existing opening using shims and weatherproofing sealant, leaving the surrounding plaster and exterior finish undisturbed. Where the frame is compromised, a full-frame replacement strips the opening back to the masonry, checks for hidden damp or rot, and installs a new uPVC, timber, or aluminium frame with energy-rated glazing and trickle vents where Building Regulations require them.
After fitting, the installer checks that the window opens, closes, and locks correctly, and that the perimeter seal is airtight with no gaps at the reveals. Replacement windows in domestic properties require FENSA certification or local authority Building Control approval, the installer handles this as part of the job. Old frames and glazing are removed from site, and any making good around the internal reveals is completed before the installer leaves.